'Fantosmia' is quite the coldest scent that I have encountered - and given that we have scents from Reykjavik this is truly something! The word actually alludes to a condition where people experience a phantom smell (Euan himself suffered this a few years ago) and there is something rather eidolic about this scent. The concept really suits this Perfumer's signature which is that the scents do not develop in a linear way but instead spin back and forth across the palette of ingredients - quite an unsettling experience to begin with but one soon finds it completely addictive. These perfumes don't sit lazily on the skin, they keep moving - they are like a great melody, they tell a story and repeat the best bits. This olfactory hallucination opens which the scent of a snowy forest which is mesmerising and so clever as the notes used are usually warm, including aetoxylon or white oud, saffron, pimento and nutmeg. I think it is the combination of fennel and shiso leaf which conjures this cool landscape and is wonderful to wear. The warm notes pop up out of the snow and swirl around the nose. I have sprayed it onto a scarf and been thoroughly enjoying the Hans Christian Anderson moments!
Impression: Black Pepper, Annatto, Cardamom, Pimento, Fennel & Sisho Leaf.
Fade: Mate, Cascarilla, Nutmeg, Aetoxylon, Castoreum*, Saffron & Tobacco
*of synthetic origin.
Mr Mccall belongs to this school of thought. He is, by fragrance standards, an enfant terrible and his work for Jorum Studio is wildly unfettered, conjuring a plethora of naturalistic landscapes, both epic and distilled - he is, for me, an olfactory Turner with a twist!